Original ID20 chairs for the convertible are very hard to find, especially lately.
Fortunately, I have a complete set on stock with the front chairs side handle to fold the back forward, both left and right in the original brown leather version.
Also, I have the rear bench and back from the same donor ID (1965). The rear bench don’t fit in my 1970 ID20 convertible but the front chairs will fit nicely. I will get the car tomorrow out of the winter storage and will put the chairs in this week. Then, finally, I can take the temporary Volvo C70 chairs out.
I will post some pictures to show what this looks like, asap!
July 2019: I noticed a small amount of coolant under the car from time to time, after parking.
So looking for the cause, and as a precaution, I immediately replaced the water pump housing, thermostat, lower hoses and water pump.
Also replaced all gaskets, cleaned the surfaces, checked all hoses optically and so on.
After fitting, first tested the cooling system with a pressure kit and left it pressurized overnight. No leakage. The action seems to have been successful.
Update 3-2021: After this action, it appears that there is still a little coolant under the car when I have driven a bit after which the car has been parked overnight. While driving, the car does not seem to lose anything.
It seems that as the car cools down, it builds up so much pressure in the cooling system that there is leakage that does not occur while driving. Possibly the expansion and contraction of the engine parts has something to do with this and the contraction after driving could possible cause the extra pressure. Apparently the radiator cap is not the solution to this problem. This cap should open at a certain pressure and allow some of the compressed air at the top of the radiator to escape. That this principle does work is clear because the catcher at the bottom of the overpressure hose which is mounted at the radiator cap does catch coolant when I have incidentally overfilled the radiator slightly.
In the meantime, I have ordered an overpressure vessel to mount in the cooling circuit to better compensate for the pressure, and a mechanical pressure regulator and valve to adjust this cooling system to a pleasant maximum pressure. I hope this will stop the cooling system from leaking.
Due to returning problems with 5 LHM pumps in my ID/DS I decided a while ago to get a CX pump, make it fit the ID/DS and replace the previous original ID/DS pump.
The problem with any original pump is that they all leak. Not during driving, but after a while, in the garage or in the parking lot. I had 3 overhauled pumps from the larger suppliers but thay all shared this problem. Not a lot of leakage but enough to get me in trouble in my parking garage.
On top of this, new MOT ruling is that a car, also old cars, may not leak any fluid. So, it was coming anyway.
I had a LHM pump available, from one of the first CX series and this is what I did:
- pull off the pulley from the CS pump with a special puller kit(I bought my kit on aliexpress for 30 Euros including posrage). You need this kit since the newer pumps like from the CX use a press- on pulley.
- Get an original pulley that is alike the one in your ID/DS, or use the one from your car’s LHM pump. I used a pulley for 3 V belts, 2 for the feed side and i for my Airco. Get the hole on the Lathe turned up to almost 16mm. Not too much or you cannot press it on the CX pump axle.
- Still in the lathe, turn the inside of the pulley to the shape of the CX pump’s outside diameter.
- Turn the pulley in the center so that the pulley is exactly in the right place (by measuring) , just not against the pump housing.
- I chose to put new metric M8 thread in the inside of the CX axle by using a rethreading kit (helicoil) for M8, for ease of installing the press-on pulley and for fastening the pulley with a standard M8 bolt.
- Turn a ring, inside 16,05 mm and about 8 mm thick, because the CX axle will come through the ID/DS pulley about 7 mm.
- Press the pulley on the CX pump’s axle, put the self-made ring on it and fasten the lot with an M 8 ring and bolt.
- Use thread fastener of any kind.
- Then, get the car and get the old pump out. I usually leave everything in, but my airco pump because this is really in the way.
- Put the new pump and tubing in, with new rubbers. I also replaced the sucking tube to the LHM supply.
- Then, fill the pump and hose with LHM and start the engine. Woith the filter tube up, fill this with LHM till the pump works well. stop the engine, quickly replace the tube in the LHM barrel. It took me 4 times before the pump continued working.
- The result: Fast on her feet, and absolutely no more spillage and leakage!
- View te picture gallery for the details!